Installing Non Mortise Hinge

Installing Non Mortise Hinge

• Clamps • Router • Chisel • By Robert J. Settich A box hinged with mortised butts appears tidy and effortless. And like many accomplishments, it looks easy until you try it for yourself. Connexions methode de francais pdf to excel. But if you have a basic knowledge of how a hinge’s geometry works and then follow a systematic approach, you’ll get good results with your first try. Great results come after practice.

A non-mortise hinge can be mortised in for that application. As far as the lid not lining up with the box, it helps if you lay the lid where you want it on the box and take a pensil and draw the outline of the box on the underside. That way you know where to place the hinge. To install the door, screw all of the leaves in place except the top one on the door. Put the hole of the bottom door leaf onto its mating pin, and hold the door in its open position. Gently tilt the top of the door toward you far enough that you can place the last leaf onto its pin.

In this article, I'll describe how to fashion a mortised butt hinge, piano hinge, knife hinge, and round hinge. I'll also describe a template for hinge mortising, and how to square a routed hinge mortise, rehabilitate common hinge mortise problems and install a passage door. As you'll see, learning how to craft mortised hinges will open up some amazing woodworking possibilities. Photos by Robert J. Settich This article originally appeared in Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Choosing and Installing Hardware (2003). Deepen the score line with a knife Complete the mortises: There are two different ways to mortise the hinges—you can cut a full-depth mortise in the box’s base, or cut half-depth mortises in both the base and lid, as I did.

When you set the router’s depth of cut, you’ll also want to create a slight clearance gap along the back edge of the lid. Clamp a scrap board to the box’s outer edge to prevent tearout and to increase the bearing surface for the router’s baseplate.

Rout the mortises in the base and lid. I used a 1⁄8-in. Bit in a laminate trimmer, a combination that provides adequate power with excellent control. How close you dare to rout to the layout lines depends on your courage, experience, and whether you drink espresso or decaf. Follow your labels and screw the hinges in place Secure the hinges: To complete the mortises, begin with a vertical chisel cut at each end.

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Next, put the chisel’s bevel against the routed bottom of the mortise to finish removing the waste at the ends. Now you’ll change tactics because a vertical chisel cut along the grain could split the delicate wall near the inside of the box.

Use a crafts or utility knife to deepen that score line with repeated passes. Finally, remove the waste with the chisel, slicing along the grain with the bevel down.

A handy Rockler jig Work on the back wall: The completed mortise is nearly ready to receive the hinge. If this test mortise isn’t long enough to accept the hinge, you can easily fine-tune the fit. Simply loosen the knobs that hold the sliding bar, and again place the hinge in the opening.